i was planning on doing this earlier but between work and school, its been hard to find the time. i've had a couple people PM asking about the swap, so i figured i would just do a complete write up in case someone else wants to do this in the future. so mods you want want to consider making this a stick
needle nose pliers
hammer (in case you get pissed off and wanna smash it...lol)
BOLTS,NUTS, & WASHERS
2ea (1/4X20X 1 1/2in grade 8 bolt w/locking nuts)
3ea (1/4x20x 3/4in hex head screws w/locking nuts)
1 bag (1/4in flat washers)
4ea (3/4in flat washers for shims)
16ga sheet metal ( you only need a small piece of this 1in wide by 3in long to bolt the master cylinder too.
first thing of course you will need is a good rim, cbr wheel spacers and complete brakes set up. i went with a CBR900RR rear wheel on mine; for the simple fact that i had 2 sets of wheels for my cbr. i went with a 200/50/17 Metz for the rear wheel, but this rim can handle a 210.
i bought i 39T cbr sprocket to use for my sprocket. if your chain is in good shape still, you shouldn't have to replace it. the cbr & shadow chains are the same from the factory, they both are 525 chains. make sure you use locktite when you place you sprocket on your rim.
i shopped around on egay for several months until i found a good deal on the brake set up. i purchased a 2003 CBR600RR set up to use. the only difference between it and the 900 set up is the brake caliper bracket. when it comes to the caliper bracket, you want to have a 900 caliper bracket. the axle in the SS & CBR are exactly the same; so the 900 will work better than the new 600 models. i traded the 600 one to the local shop for a 900 caliper bracket.
now once you have all your brake part; (mater cylinder, 32in brake line, caliper, and brake stay); bench bleed it all first to make sure it all works fine.
for the brake stay that you are gonna bolt to the frame; i went to a machine chop and had them mill me out one. they made it out of 6061 aluminum 1in bar stock. the inside was 3/4 wide and 3/4 deep about 4in long. that way you have a little play for adjustment. but i still had to notch the back end closest to the caliper bracket because it would bind up on it when trying to slide the wheel back. you will need 2ea 1/4x20x1 1/2in bolts with lock nuts to go through the frame to bolt this on along with some washers for shims.
1. remove my exhaust system to get it out of the way; you will need into the frame and factory brake linkage. a 12mm socket with an extension can be used to remove them.
2. with the exhaust removed you now have easy access to the brake linkage. unhook the link from the brake drum itself using a 14mm wrench and slide the spring, bushing, & bolt back onto the end of the linkage.
3. using an allen wrench, unbolt the linkage from the side of the frame to get to the cotter pin on the back side. remove this pin with a set of needle nose and separate the linkage into the front and back half.
4. now take a 14mm socket and remove the right forward control. you need to remove the front brake rod complete from the set up because you are gonna have to have it cut down and re-welded together. there is another cotter pin on the backside of it to remove it.
by this time you should have you brake linkage completely removed from the front to the back of the bike.
5. now we are gonna unbolt the drum brake stay from the frame. using a 14mm socket on the front and a 12mm on the back. but you must first remove the cotter pin from this as well to remove the nut. once you have it unbolted from the frame, now unbolt it from the hub itself.
6. at this point, place either your bike stand or jack under your bike and lift the rear off the ground.
7. remove the chain guard using a 10mm socket and set it to the side with the other parts.
8. now it is time for the rear wheel. using a breaker bar and a 27mm socket on one side, and a ratchet with a 22mm on the other, loosen your rear axle and take the nut off.
9. i used a drill with an 8mm socket on it to crank the wheel all the way forward to remove the chain. at this point, grab a hold of the wheel with one hand and knock the axle out with your free one.
you have just removed the rear wheel. now we are gonna replace it with your cbr wheel.
clean your axle that you just pulled out. mine was a little rust, some 600grit took care of it real easy.
here is where things get hard but just for a second or 2. you might need an extra pair of hands to help on this.
1. find a good place on the right side of the swing arm in from of the axle slot to drill your 2 holes for your brake stay. once you have determined where you want place it, drill the holes, i used a 5/32 bit to drill mine. i also used the small washers in between the stay and the frame as shims to make sure everything was flat and true.
2. grease your axle and get it ready to slide back in, make sure you have your wheel spacers in place on both sides of the wheel and a 3/4in washer ready to slide in as a shim when you start pushing the axle through. this is where help is good, while you are holding the rim, your help can start the axle through the frame and placing 1ea washer between the frame and wheel spacer.
3. slide the axle through the wheel until it is barely poking out the other side. from here you have to slide your brake bracket into place and put another washer in as a shim while pushing the axle the rest of the way through.
4. by now your wheel and brake should all be in on the rear of the bike. place your chain back on the sprocket and adjust for tightness. keep in mind that you will probably have to remove 2 links from your chain.
5. get your chain to the tension you want then you can can tighten you wheel back down. double check everything to ensure you are centered in the back and your chain is lined up good and straight.
6. using the piece of sheet metal i mentioned above, drill 3 holes in it. 2 of them are to mount the master cylinder too. place the third one in the middle of those to bolt your master cylinder to your frame where you pulled the spring off the frame from the old linkage.
7. now you will need to take you original front piece of brake linkage and have it cut and re welded back together. what i did was measured mine and had about 2in removed from it. you want the old end welded back on because this is how you will hook up the linkage and the master cylinder. the problem i found here though was bolting the two of them together. where they bolted up, it kept wanting to fold down and not allowing the plunger in the cylinder to flow freely. so i had the hyme joint end of the cylinder and the now shortened down linkage brazed together. once this is completed, connect your linkage to the cylinder and install you forward controls back on the bike.
8. all you should have left to do from this point is connect the master cylinder to the caliber and plumb the brake line. i ran my line under the front side of my frame and up in between the swing arm and the engine; then down the swing arm to the caliper and connected it. a 12mm wrench will be used to hook the line up on each end.
9. pull your side cover and place you reservoir up under it. using an 8mm wrench, at this time pump up your brake and get ready to start bleeding it. once you have it bled. place your side cover back on hiding it and you should be ready for a test ride.
ok i believe i have layed out everything above to help out with this swap. i can't think of anything else that left out. i have posted in my pics all the photos i took during the swap so take a look at them as well to get a reference on the process.
if you have any other questions, please feel free to PM me and i will assist in anyway i possibly can.