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Forward Controls
Old 05-07-2005, 12:04 AM   #1
M@Man
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Forward Controls

This is the long awaited Forward Control Mod (well it seemed like a long wait for me )
This mod moves the controls forward 4 inches, I'm 5'9" and it's fits just right.

Now down to bizness...
You need a 1/4 inch thick plate of hardened steel..
Some aluminium diamond plate (if you want..this is optional, for decorative purposes)
Crome tubing
One 13mm socket (you have to cut it, for the Foot Brake control piviot point, it's strong and the foot control fits on it perfectly)
One Brake Rod from a VLX #46540MBS000 582541-9 Rod,R ($30.44)
One Shift Rod from a Sprit 1100 #90065DAF000 313404-6 Bolt ($6.98)
and some nuts and bolts from your local hardware store (metric 8mm)
The brake rod needs to be shortend by 1 inch, but that's easier than trying to add to your exsisting one, so I took the lazy way out and you will need to bend it in two places for clearence, I just used a bench vice and a metal pole to make the bends.
Now my friends at Giovinini Metals Inc. helped me out (again) they gave me some scrap metal so I could acomplish this, and they shortened the brake rod ($5), now if you can do your own metal work then you're one step ahead of me. I do guess work, and figure things out as I go along.

First you cut you steel plate (which ain't easy using a dremmel) and diomond plate down to 3 inches by 7 1/2 inches (brake side) and 3 inches by 7 inches (shift side) Why not the same for both sides? Trust me, the brake side mounts a little goofy so to move them forward the same on both sides you need that extra 1/2 inch. (see 1st, and 2nd pictures)

Second, take your plates and shape them, I chose a simple rounded shape, but if you've got the ability and time, I say get creative. (3rd and 4th pictures)
If you go with the diamond plate then you must do the same cuts to it, as you do to the steel plate.

Third, measure and mark your plates for the mounting holes. After marking I used a center punch to make a starting point for the drill. (5th picture) Then drill the holes (not shown, I couldn't drill and hold the camera at the same time...sorry)

Fourth, take your 13mm socket and cut it to a length of 3cm. (Yes I had to use metric mesurements these are metric bikes after all)
Then you need to take you chrome tubing and cut it down to make some spacers. 3 @ 2cm, 1 @ 3.5cm & 1 @ 1.25cm (do you hate me for the metric mesurements yet?)
(All of this is shown in pictures 6 & 7)

Guess what? You're done cutting, now all you have to do is...(well I painted the steel plate)...Put it all together! (Picture 8 is all the parts you should have...minus the shift and brake rods...I forgot to put them in the picture.)

Now at this point I hope you know how to put it together, it's real easy...hell! I did it, you can too! Pictures 9 & 10 show the finnished project on the bike.

Now kick back and enjoy the ride!
M@
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Last edited by M@Man : 05-11-2005 at 07:48 PM.
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Old 05-11-2005, 10:50 AM   #2
lang
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M@man, I registered so I could thank you for sharing your work on the forward controls. I've looked high and low for fowards for my bike ('88 VT800) and only found one set ($650 and the only US sales rep won't import them). Thanks for your pioneering - it'll make my job that much easier. Hopfully I'll get to fowards later this year. Before that, though, I'll be swapping out my gauges, indicator lights and console for one mini-gauge. Hopefully that'll be done in the next month.
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Old 05-11-2005, 07:23 PM   #3
amazngrace
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They look good M@, How do they feel?

...ED
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Old 05-11-2005, 07:46 PM   #4
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Great!, I love 'em. I just wish I could think up something for you 1100 owners and for the other Shadow's too.
You guys could probably get some mounts and connecting rods from a Spirit 1100 and bolt them further up on the frame. Because the Spirit 1100 connecting rod for the brake is the same length as what I need, it was just bent wrong for my mod, that's why I used the one off the VLX. It was strait, and I used the bench vice and a long pipe to bend the slight jog it needed to make.
I don't want Classic Shadow Modifications area to be just strictly for the 700's and 800's, I want mods and pix for all the classic Shadow's. I don't know of any 1100's around my area that I could get mesurements from but I will check around, I'm sure there's got to be one around here.

lang, thanks alot for the comp! Don't be a stranger, and welcome to the funny farm!

M@
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Last edited by M@Man : 05-11-2005 at 08:13 PM.
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Old 05-11-2005, 10:27 PM   #5
RustyJake
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nice job M@man, and a very good explanation on how to as well as the pics.
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Old 05-11-2005, 11:00 PM   #6
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Thanks RustyJake, I didn't get all the photo's I wanted because as I was workin' I'd get involved with what I was doin' and forget to snap some shots. Plus I'm embarrassed about the fact that I didn't take a shot of the brake connecting rod, and the bends that it needed.
But they did turn out better than I thought, I truely have no metal working skills...never took shop in school.
So all of this was really learn as I go and guess work. The fact that it actually worked surprised me!
And it all cost less than 50 bucks!
I'm just glad I was able to contribute something that was valuable to my fellow Shadowriders.


M@
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Old 05-12-2005, 07:56 AM   #7
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Thanks for the info!
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Old 05-14-2005, 12:03 AM   #8
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I figure, if I can do this mod, anybody can. No real skills required, just keep safety in mind folks. Do you have any idea how much a broken cutting disk can hurt when it hits you? I thought the first one took off my finger when it broke, untill I looked (just a nasty scratch.)

Wear your safety glasses!!

You never can tell which direction it's gonna fly.




M@
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Old 06-06-2005, 04:50 PM   #9
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Hey M@man,

what dictated the 4" extention rather than something longer? Personal preference, length of the new brake and shift rods? I was thinking, if the brake rod you used was an inch too long, could you use your basic design and just thread a longer shift rod and fabricate 5" extentions? I'm trying to get as much length as I can (insert joke here) without going so far that I have to use a bracing rod running in front of the radiator to attach the two extentions.

Thanks!
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Old 06-06-2005, 11:58 PM   #10
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Good question, I'm glad you asked. It was a couple of factors.

First, the exhaust. I could have gone around it by making the spacers larger and using bigger bolts, but I thought that it would be too much stress on the bolts. I like to have enough strenth in the extentions to be able to stand up and put my full weight on the foot pegs.
Second, yes the length of the rods. I had to shorten the brake rod, but I wanted it to have as clean of look as possible, without a bunch of cut and welds.
Third, yeah it was a little of personal preference.

If you are going to try and make yours longer, might I recommend using a thicker grade of steel. Plus I'm going to add, that depending on your Shadow, you may be able to get that extra inch. On mine the front exhaust angles back as it comes down, but on others I have seen that pipe drop strait down, and that would allow for more room to play.

M@
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