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Old 08-05-2013, 12:38 AM   #41
Shadow God
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03ACE is Offline
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Knoxville, TN
Posts: 1,349
Martin gave you some good advice there. Also, if there is a broken piece of bolt in there, you can probably back it out with a reverse or "left handed" drill bit. If the threads are truly stripped in there, I would drill it out oversized, and helicoil it. Provided there is room, as Martin also said.

Drilled stock exhaust (1" holesaw)
Uni PK-82 pod filters
DynoJet Stage 1 jet kit - 130/132 mains
Scootmods forwards
Saddlemen Profiler seat
38T sprocket
4* timing mod
EBC CSK28 clutch springs
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Old 06-08-2016, 04:33 PM   #42
gaspar17 is Offline
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 3
Your bike looks great! I am picking up a new to me 05 Aero tonight. I was thinking of powdercoating the chrome on it, but I see you used plastidip on yours. Is there no issue with heat on the primary or clutch covers? And did you plastidip your rocker covers as well? Thanks.
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Old 06-08-2016, 05:15 PM   #43
2007aerotroup is Offline
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Grover Beach, CA
Posts: 25
It's been a long time since I have worked on this thread, but I wanted to give you an update on the situation.

The MAJOR issue with switching out my stock shocks for the hard tail struts was the fact that i tried to do it without taking any of the weight off the rear end of the bike by putting it up on a jack. I swapped them out one-by-one. I did it by physically lifting the rear frame rail up with one hand while I tried to put the bolt in to the final drive. It was one of the dumbest things I have ever done. (except for riding around for nearly 3 years with it stripped.) I do have some great news though. I went on a 2000 mile trip with my brother-in-laws and decided that before I go, I should put my stock shocks and seat back on. This included FINALLY getting to the root of the bolt issue in the final drive.

I put the bike up on a stand this time and removed the shocks correctly, including the stripped bolt. It turns out that while trying to tighten the bolt into the final drive (without a torque wrench. Another genius idea.) I sheared the bolt head from the threads. The good news is that I did not have to removed/re-tap the threads in the final drive. I simply had to buy a new bolt and clean out the final drive threads a little.

Lesson: Use the proper tools and equipment.

On the question of plasti-dip. I used it on everything but the motor. I used a satin finish high heat black for all of the engine covers and a VHT gloss black for the motor.

Here are some pictures of my bike now:



I did plasti-dip the wheel red. I will get pictures of that up soon.
Wrench Time!

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Old 06-08-2016, 10:13 PM   #44
gaspar17 is Offline
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 3
Thanks for the update. Right after I hit post I noticed that the last time you posted was 3 years ago. I just got home from picking up my Aero. I felt the covers after getting home, noticed 1. they were pretty hot, which went to my initial question about the heat affecting the plastidip, and 2. all the covers were plastic. This suprised me a bit, as I have been a Harley guy for years and bought this for the stop and go work traffic that over heats my bike at times. But thanks for the clarification, will probably go with the VHT or Rustoleum hi temp for the covers and engine cases. I would assume you had to sand the chrome on the covers pretty well before painting?
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