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View Poll Results: What Rear Sprocket did you change to?
36 7 3.57%
37 21 10.71%
38 116 59.18%
39 38 19.39%
40 3 1.53%
41 5 2.55%
Other 6 3.06%
Voters: 196. You may not vote on this poll

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Rear sprocket change - One of the top, if not THE best mod!
Old 06-21-2009, 09:52 AM   #1
burningshadow
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Cool Rear sprocket change - One of the top, if not THE best mod!

If you did a search, you'd find 100+ posts on the topic and thousands of noobies asking the same F-ing questions over and over. This is an attempt to bring the details of this mod into one place, make it a sticky post and put this to bed. For the noobies with shaft drive, you fucked up and have no choice, sell yours, get a chain drive Spirit and turn your middleweight cruiser into what feels like (well maybe gears like) a bigger dog. Take this mod and couple it with more open pipes, stage 3 jet kit, and a thunder mfg. intake or hypercharger (go newer pro models) and you've gained anywhere from 25-30% more H.P. over stock!!! Couple this with a sub 500lb bike now a little less than 50 H.P. and you've got a bike to hold on to for a few more years!


Why do it?

The Shadow 750 stock gear ratios cause a whiney, buzzy feeling at highway cruising speed. It just feels like it should be a lower RPM and a deeper rumble from your bike. You also get lower RPMs through the entire set of gears giving you a deeper, throatier ride when cruising locally also. With this mod. you'll be accelerating at 65mph while still in fourth, slip into 5th and you won't be searching for that 'Imaginary 6th Gear'

My experience is with a 37 Tooth. I gained almost 10% reduction in RPM, which in 5th gear equates to 400+ RPM reduction. It is a HUGE difference and makes cruising a completely different experience going from revvy to lower rumble, smooth cruise.

My results based on shift speed:
Before: 1st at 15ish, 2nd at 25ish, 3rd at 35-40, 4th at 55, in 5th revvy with comfortable top end of 70ish, above whiny as shit
After: 1st shifts at 20, 2nd at 30ish, 3rd at 45, 4th at 60-65, in 5th so much smoother from 55-80, above that and the difference somewhat diminishes but we're probably not opening it up too much beyond 70-75 in reality anyway. Sick mothas with an issue above 80 should buy a 2nd sport bike and post on that forum with your issues

Here's a video of a fellow SS750 rider that did the mod:



How It Works

Your stock gears provide a ratio between the front and rear wheel. This ratio determines how fast the engine has to spin to make the rear wheel turn one revolution. The lower the ratio, the less the engine spins to make the rear turn equaling lower RPMs. Though a lower gear ratio means the engine takes more power to make that one wheel revolution. In real terms, this means marginally less performance/speed at those lower RPM's. Lower the gear ratio and you have to increase the Horsepower proportionally to get the same performance before the change.

Your stock gear ratio on an SS750 is 2.41 or 41teeth rear divided by 17tooth front; Change your rear sprocket to a 37 tooth and the gear ratio is 2.18
so you've lowered the ratio by .232 or almost 10% Say you were running 4500 RPM at 60mph, you'll now run at 450 RPMs LOWER! You do the math for other rear sprocket sizes to see the comparison.

That is HUGE for a middleweight cruiser like the SS750 and will completely change the ride, sound and feel of your ride. Reality: It's not a sports bike, so the loss in low end performance is made up for by your new experience.


Downsides?

Well, there's always the costs of doing mods, but balance that with what you get out of it and this one measures just about the highest in performance/tuning. The only serious thing that you give up with this mod. is speed off the line. By changing the gear ratios, you're essentially increasing the amount of engine power that must be applied in order to accelerate at the same rate you did before the change. Most report that they have to be a little heavier on the throttle and change the way they feather the clutch out. Makes sense and if you're like me, you bought this bike to cruise, not race, so who gives a shit.


What Does it cost?

Short answer: Anywhere from $100-$150 for parts only, to $200-$275 including installation at a local or stealership. Rear sprocket only: $40-50, master link $5 (see details below on this route, ONLY for new or VERY low mileage bikes) Installation: A local shop is anywhere from $60-$90/hr. This is an hour job at most!


What parts do you need?

There are actually 2 answers for that. Answer one causes a little controversy, depending on how cautious you are. What I did and what some others said was OK for mileage on the chain & sprockets less than 5000 miles is to only swap the rear sprocket.

Rear Sprocket: Part#: 815-XX, where XX is # of teeth
Try Billski: http://billski182.com/Rear_Steel_Sprocket.htm currently has the 38T in stock
or Scootworks: http://www.scootworks.com/shop.cgi/p...D=PUT_SID_HERE

Front sprocket: If you're not doing a rear sprocket only change...I like Bikebandit.com to find shit, because they seem to have every possible OEM part. They are NOT the cheapest, so look around
Part #: varies by part web site, but item 19 in microfiche, Sprocket (17T)
http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmot...t-2006/o/m2905

This should be the same 17T part for multiple years from 2000-2006, Check first and if I were you, don't screw with changing the size of the front. There may be clearance issues with the cover/casing.

Chain: If you're doing rear sprocket only, you'll need to remove 1-2 links from your stock chain. I went this route having low mileage on my ride. Had a local shop do it and they removed: master and 1 link(two side plates & 1 center) See master link below for OEM ML you need.

NOTE: If you buy a 120 link chain, there is a chance you will need TWO master links, buyer beware.

If you're not doing a rear sprocket only change...you'll need a 525 o-ring chain. The stock chain is a 122 link RK if you want to stick with OEM. See item 1 on page below.(RK525SM02Z5) (122L-130L) (RK EXCEL) (STANDARD LINK 122L),A,AC
http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmot...t-2006/o/m2905

Master link: MAKE SURE YOU MATE THE RIGHT M-Link WITH THE CHAIN! If you decide to go aftermarket, get the exact match suggested for your chain. For OEM, Click link for chain above and get Item 3. NOTE: This is the type of link you have to flare our the rivet after seating versus a plate that clips on. If you get a ML that has a clip plate, BE SURE to seat the clip so that the front end(without opening) faces the direction of chain travel, which will let the force of acceleration keep it seated!!!


How Do You Do It?

Assuming you're doing this yourself, you need either two adjustable wrenches or 1 and a metric socket set, a grinder(if you still have stock chain), channel lock and a jack/lift. Possibly picture wire to string chain through and keep tension while measuring for # of links.

Steps for rear sprocket only...for complete install, you must remove left drive cover plate to expose front sprocket, remove
  1. Lift bike (standard jack 'trick', cover the top to prevent chipping paint on underside of frame, place under right side, SLOWLY lift so the bike's weight is shared on front tire, kickstand and jack raising rear about 1-2 inches off the ground. Slow and steady.)
  2. Using adj. wrench(es)/socket, remove rear axle nut on right side
  3. Remove axle from left side, some wiggling and tapping may be needed
  4. Unscrew rear brake adjuster wing nut on right side, freeing adjuster arm from rear drum
  5. Remove chain from rear sprocket
  6. Remove wheel from bike, you may have to remove license plate depending ur bike and the way you jacked
  7. Remove all bolts on rear sprocket
  8. Place new sprocket and tighten (a torque wrench and the right setting would be best, anyone know torque for this?)
  9. Bring chain adjusters all the way IN, so that your initial chain length will be shortest possible allowing for future stretch
  10. Install rear wheel, place chain over rear sprocket, do NOT fully tighten axle nuts
  11. You'll notice the slack in the chain if you've got a 122 link stock chain.
  12. If you pinch the links to bring the length and slack to proper play (I think 3/4" play) you'll see how many links you need to remove. Don't forget you've got a Master Link also.
  13. Bust out the grinder, find the master link, grind the rivets for that link down to side plate
  14. Punch out at the rivet, remove additional link or two
  15. Seat master link, rivet ends face outwards! (this should be a snug fit, not loose or floating)
  16. For OEM ML, flare the rivets to secure it. Different techniques are using a small ball bearing just larger than the width of the rivet, place in rivet hole, press in using a channel lock being VERY careful not to pinch chain side plates!!! or BEST WAY using a flaring tool specifically for this purpose...another way is an awl or small hardened steel screwdriver tapped somewhat hard against the rivet to flare over the side plate. Some get freaked a little thinking this could work its way out, but if you get a good flare, there is little if any lateral force on the rivet, all the force is in the direction of chain pull.
I hope this has helped out some of my fellow brothers out there. In these tough times, it may help you keep your ride for a couple more years and save $$ & put off trading up.

Keep the shiny side up...
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2006 Shadow Spirit 750 DC
Mods: Thunder Mfg. Intake! w/Stage 3 jet kit, 37 tooth steel Rear sprocket, V&H Cruzers, K&N Air Filter, ISO Grips/Peg Set, some chrome, The Hooker, Cheapo saddlebags, Paladin sissy bar/mounts/rack, Switchblade 2Up windshield/mounts

Last edited by burningshadow : 06-23-2009 at 11:56 PM.
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Old 06-23-2009, 11:04 PM   #2
pmperry
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How big of a difference is there between the 37 and 38 tooth? Would this even be noticable? I'm just curious as every time I visit Bilski they only have the 38 tooth in stock...
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Old 06-23-2009, 11:24 PM   #3
burningshadow
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FROM THE ORIGINAL POST:
Your stock gear ratio on an SS750 is 2.41 or 41teeth rear divided by 17tooth front; Change your rear sprocket to a 37 tooth and the gear ratio is 2.18
so you've lowered the ratio by .232 or almost 10% Say you were running 4500 RPM at 60mph, you'll now run at 450 RPMs LOWER! You do the math for other rear sprocket sizes to see the comparison.


LOOKING AT A 38T:
A 38 tooth rear would give you a gear ratio of 2.235 (38T rear divided by 17 tooth front)

OK, what does that mean? Well, you would have to compare that to the stock ratio (2.41) so 2.41 minus 2.235 = .175 ... that's the difference but we still have to have that make some sense...so we ask what % change is that...

.175 divided by the original ratio of 2.41 = .0725 or 7.25% reduction from original 41T to a 38T

now if you want the diff. between a 38T and 37T... 2.235 minus 2.18 = .055

so what % diff. is that ... .023 or 2.3% less reduction in gear ratio than a 37Tooth from original

What does that shit mean in the real world??? Yeah there's a difference, but it's how you look at it...you either are satisfied with a 7.25% improvement over stock which is a change you'll notice or you see it as 25% less reduction that you get with a 37Tooth.

PS: You're lucky I was in a gear ratio calculatin Fing mood , so FUCKOFFNOOBTHATCANTFIGUREOUTGEARING!!!

and welcome to the nuthouse!!!
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2006 Shadow Spirit 750 DC
Mods: Thunder Mfg. Intake! w/Stage 3 jet kit, 37 tooth steel Rear sprocket, V&H Cruzers, K&N Air Filter, ISO Grips/Peg Set, some chrome, The Hooker, Cheapo saddlebags, Paladin sissy bar/mounts/rack, Switchblade 2Up windshield/mounts
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I didn't mean in numbers
Old 06-23-2009, 11:39 PM   #4
pmperry
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I didn't mean in numbers

I didn't mean what would the difference be in Gearing Ratio I mean would I really notice the difference while riding... I guess I was looking for somebody to post that went with the 38 tooth mod.
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Old 06-23-2009, 11:48 PM   #5
burningshadow
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Well, you did ask what the diff. between the 37 and 38 would be and how many folks do you think would have done both to the same bike? Probably not too many if any. Anyway, you'll get plenty of opinions on the 38, but on the diff. between, this may be the only way to tell the difference a little better than someone's 'opinion' on 1 tooth. Good luck in any case and FCUK OFF!
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2006 Shadow Spirit 750 DC
Mods: Thunder Mfg. Intake! w/Stage 3 jet kit, 37 tooth steel Rear sprocket, V&H Cruzers, K&N Air Filter, ISO Grips/Peg Set, some chrome, The Hooker, Cheapo saddlebags, Paladin sissy bar/mounts/rack, Switchblade 2Up windshield/mounts
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Old 06-23-2009, 11:54 PM   #6
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Burningshadow you do some damn fine detailed work. Thank you for all that you contribute to this forum. It must take considerable time. I'll be watching this post for my change come this winter.


Down the hatch Bro.
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Old 06-24-2009, 12:02 AM   #7
burningshadow
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Thx Alum, if it saves us from 100 fucking noob questions on the same shit over and over, worth it! I can't wait to get a free flow intake and a stage 3 rejetting done now!
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2006 Shadow Spirit 750 DC
Mods: Thunder Mfg. Intake! w/Stage 3 jet kit, 37 tooth steel Rear sprocket, V&H Cruzers, K&N Air Filter, ISO Grips/Peg Set, some chrome, The Hooker, Cheapo saddlebags, Paladin sissy bar/mounts/rack, Switchblade 2Up windshield/mounts
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Old 06-24-2009, 12:08 AM   #8
omega9763
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You'll love it BS
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Old 06-24-2009, 12:15 AM   #9
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I`ll second that.
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Old 06-24-2009, 12:26 AM   #10
wodahSSpirit
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38T being installed this friday before laconia trip... ill post results
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