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Old 10-22-2014, 11:22 AM   #71
BaldEagle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eulin87
So it's basically to clear out the space around it?
How did you get to this conclusion?

The stock air box is there because the manufacture has to produce vehicles to standards that do not include maximum performance but environmental requirements. The stock air box and filter restricts air flow which does not allow for proper and peak combustion for the engine. When you remove the stock air box and open up the intake so that more air can get to the engine now you can rejet the carb and adjust the fuel mixture to match the increase air and BAM...better combustion in the cylinder = better performance from the engine.
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Old 10-22-2014, 12:29 PM   #72
Eulin87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BaldEagle
How did you get to this conclusion?

The stock air box is there beso that more air can get to the engine now you can rejet the carb and adjust the fuel mixture to match the increase air and BAM...better combustion in the cylinder = better performance from the engine.
Sorry. That's what I meant. To clear space around it for more intake. Makes sense. Thank you!
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Old 10-26-2015, 02:55 AM   #73
tocanostra
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScootGeek
Part 1 - Remove the Stock Air Cleaner Housing & Air Cleaner Chamber
[Post '98 Model Years (Single Carb)]

If your like me, the urge to complete that mod you've been
planning for months strikes right after you've come home from
filling up your tank. Invariably, Step 1 will be to remove
the tank... Please, plan better than I did...


Source & Reference: VLX Service Manual (From Sticky - This Forum)
5-0 Fuel System
5-4 Air Cleaner Housing
5-7 Air Cleaner Chamber



Step 1: Remove the tank.
A. Remove the fuel tank mounting bolt.
B. Turn the fuel valve knob to the "Off" position.
C. Disconnect the fuel tube.
D. Pull Up & Towards the Rear Tire to unseat & remove.
* You may have to remove your seat to access the mounting bolt.

Step 2: Remove the Air Cleaner Housing
A. Remove the sub air cleaner case cover

B. There will be three bolts at 10, 2 & 6 O'clock. Remove.
This will open up the housing where the stock filter element lives.

C. With the filter element out of the housing, you will now see 2
more bolts at 12 O'clock which hold the housing to the frame. Remove.

D. From the top of the frame, looking downward, you will see a notch in
the back of the housing just above the carb. This will allow you to get
a long screwdriver down to the wormdrive clamp which holds the housing to
the carb. Loosen.

E. You will also see a hose clamp which holds the housing to the air
cleaner chamber. Loosen.


You should now be able to separate the housing from the carb, the frame mount,
and the chamber by pulling it away from the bike. With the housing loose, you
can now release the crankcase breather tube from the back of the housing. To
finish this step, remove the two bolts holding the mount to the frame.

Step 3: Remove the Air Cleaner Chamber
A. Standing on the left (Gear Shift) side of the frame, look down through
the frame and you will see a small tab (boss) where the hose is held in
place. This should simply slide up to free the hose for removal.

B. You may now pull the chamber out the left side of the frame.

* You may have better clearance if you unplug the plug wire.


It is at this point, inspired by BaldEagle, that I went to AutoZone...

Only problem, I guess is that his is "bigger than mine".


Does anyone have the pic of this? They're not showing up for me.
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Old 03-23-2016, 12:59 PM   #74
Y2KSHDW
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Great article. For clarification, was the main jet a OEM (keihin) 142, or a DJ142? According to Jets R Us and their conversion chart these two are not the same. http://www.jetsrus.com/FAQs/FAQ_miku...ihin_sizes.htm
I would assume the used jet was an OEM 142. Considering what assuming gets you... I thought I'd ask to be sure.
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