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Old 06-13-2013, 11:46 AM   #21
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Very good tutorial. Saved me $200 in labor that probably would have done a shitty job anyways.

I have a few additions too.

If you happen to be on a farm in basically the middle of nowhere, like I was when I decided it was time for new seals, and everybody looks at your like your crazy when you ask if they have any metric hardware, 15/16 bolts have a head that measures 23.5 mm. I had the tools to weld them together, but I didn't want to waste this guys hardware so this is the solution I came up with

a little trick I read on another site recommended using your old seals on top of the new one while using the PVC pipe to tap them into place to protect the new seal from any rough edges the pipe might have. I did this and it worked great, even though the pipe didn't seem to leave any noticeable deformation on the old seals either.
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Old 06-13-2013, 02:09 PM   #22
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Rhett is correct. I used a piece of 15/16 hex stock and socket for my rebuild. I also chamfered the PVC pipe with my knife to accomodate the seals.....Worked like a champ.

BE's solution is great and 100% bullet proof but "rodding" is all about making things happen on the fly. I've even heard of people using a wooden broom handle to drive into the internal head.

The only thing I deviated from the writeup was that I left the forks on the bike until I loosened the lower Socket Head Cap Screw...allowed me a clamp instead of my vise.

Bottom Line....A+ on the writeup.
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Old 11-17-2013, 08:27 PM   #23
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I just started this process, not to bad but if I didn't read this thread I would definitely be scratching my head. I welded a socket extension to a 16mm nut. I already had a 20" extension so this was perfect. That you baldeagle for the write up.
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Old 03-04-2014, 12:35 AM   #24
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OK Here is a writeup I did a long time ago with some more good pics. I'm moving over an old site to my new domain and found this while sorting through some stuff
Last time I broke the tubes open I just used a long round tube, socket attachment on one end and the bolt head on the other. JB weld worked for me if you don't have a welder. I don't have a pic of it on my page, but would suggest using that instead of the cheesy wooden dowel I used the first time.
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Old 11-22-2015, 03:41 PM   #25
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Is it ok to change the dust seals and oil only ? Reason I'm asking is I'm dismantling my bike to do it up and would like to freshen the oil and dust seals (there is not oil leaks) I'd rather not dismantle the inners :-( , also what is ment by compressing before filling with oil ? I see another poster asked this but it wasn't realy answered ! Thanks
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Old 07-27-2016, 02:31 AM   #26
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Ok, I have followed these instructions to a tee in replacing my fork seals on my 600, thank you for every bit of this valuable bit of info provided in here.
I have the leaking fork apart on my bike currently, found the oil lock was busted and a discolored, yellowish plastic ring thing beyond it is cracked. Now the oil lock was/is easy to replace, but does anyone have any experience with that ring thing beyond it? There's nothing on the diaphragm that shows it..
It does only appear to hold the oil lock piece in place, not having a huge role in the tube since when tightened the oil lock is pressed in place. Any input on this is greatly appreciated.
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Old 07-28-2016, 11:10 AM   #27
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Well KensShadow has been waiting for an answer for a while, haha. I'm sure you've decided on what to do by now, but to answer your questions it's a matter of judgement. If you don't have any leaks or issues with your forks or seals and you only want to replace the fluid and dust seals, that should be fine IMO. To answer your other question, compressing the forks...it's kinda self explanatory. When you remove the cap off of the top of the fork to replace the fluid, it'll make more sense. Get on youtube and watch a video of rebuilding/replacing seals on Honda forks and you'll see exactly what to do.

Swiz...I don't know what you could be talking about. I'm gong to rebuilding one of my forks pretty soon and I'll if there's anything resembling what you're referencing.

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Last edited by NickW : 07-28-2016 at 11:18 AM.
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Old 07-28-2016, 01:38 PM   #28
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If you look at a picture of the fork all apart from honda, it doesn't show it because it looks to be assembled inside of the fork tube. But it is right beyond the oil lock piece. My only options I've found were basically buy a new tube or put it back together and pray for the best. I believe it's looking like the second option though.. That, and my shadow is 2003 vt600cd, if that makes a difference at all.
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Alternative fork tool
Old 08-17-2016, 08:19 PM   #29
at_least_two_shadows is Offline
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Location: Albany, OR
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Alternative fork tool

Well, I didn't have any JB Weld on-hand nor any kind of welder so my fork piston tool is a bit different. I used a square 1" tube from home depot which, conveniently, provides a tight place to thread a 16mm bolt into. I then drilled a hole through completely through the structure (both the tube and the bolt) and punched a screw down into the resultant hole. It totally works and is very solid.
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Old 08-18-2016, 05:15 AM   #30
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that's a clever idea!
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