| Main Page | Shadow Forums | Motorcycle Links | Shadowrider's Photo Gallery | Today's Posts | New Posts |



DO NOT POST NUDITY OR PORN OR IT WILL BE DELETED! Thank you.

  
Go Back   Shadowriders > Honda Shadow Discussion Forums > Shadow VLX Modifications
User Name
Password
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes

VLX Shindengen Mosfet R&R Upgrade Completed
Old 06-23-2013, 07:51 PM   #1
scrapdog2grand
Shadow Junkie
 
scrapdog2grand's Avatar
 
scrapdog2grand is Offline
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: NJ
Posts: 106
VLX Shindengen Mosfet R&R Upgrade Completed

My Shindengen FH020A Mosfet R&R Upgrade - For 99 - 07 VLX


I take a lot of pride in working on the wifes VLX, and making sure it done right.
As I dont need to worry while she's got her bike out on the road.




The pictures were all taken with the tool tray removed, and they are a little grainy due to low lighting.


I considered a direct connection from the R&R to the battery, but the old R&R has been running through the stock wiring and 30 amp main fuse with the added accessories just fine, so the set up I chose was the same as stock.


All components I used to make the adaptor harnesses are available at www.cycleterminal.com






The only real problem I had with this was where to locate the New Shindegren R&R, it didnt fit properly in the Mounting bracket.
Easy solution, I removed the mounting from the frame, and cut the mounting surface down about 5/8 of an inch with a dremel. took a 1/4 off the bottom edge, and cut the steel spacers flush.



Here it is with the new R&R semi mounted. The stud spacing was pretty much perfect, took a little wiggle to get it on there.
I decided not to cut the studs down, and went with Stainless steel spacers.





Once that was done and installed back on the bike, I decided to replace the stator connector and terminals that had been cut off ,Due to overheating.
I also cut the wiring back so I could relocate the connector from its orginal bracket mounting, and position the small black 2 pin connector in its place.


New terminals from Japan, crimped then soldered. A little shrink tube on the insulation crimp for strain relief.

This connector should not be a problem now.
As most that I have seen melted, the heat started at the crimps, not the mating of the terminals.

I used the white Sumitomo connector to make it easier to keep an eye on for overheating.



I made 2 adaptor harnesses.
Note - (The Furukawa 250 terminals that come with the FH020 R&R are thick, and not easy to crimp.
I had to resort to a crimp tool for thick battery ring terminals.)


First harness for the stator connector on the right, using some 14 gauge AVX wire I had.


Second harness on the left for the battery connections. I went with 2 pieces of 16 gauge for each + and - like the stock R&R came with.
These terminals got crimped, and shrink tubing for insulation strain relief.


I did not use tubing for strain relief on the R&R side of the stator connector due to the oversized wiring.

Both got covered with high temp harness tubing.
Notice the small black 2 pin connector on the right, Its kind of in the way.

The only other problem I had was the side cover hitting the connector on the R&R.
Took that down with the dremel as well.



I had to relocate the small black 2 pin connector for the neutral and oil pressure switches.


All installed and ready to go.









14.2 at about 975 rpm's
13.9 with the fog lights on at idle
no lower than 13.6 with the fog lights and high beam at idle.
pretty happy with the whole job, and the results.








I am working on the Shindengen upgrade for the ACE This weekend.
__________________
http://www.cycleterminal.com Motorcycle Terminals, Connectors,Relay Kits, Accessories, Wiring diagrams. Site still under construction.

Last edited by scrapdog2grand : 06-23-2013 at 10:08 PM.
  Reply With Quote

Old 06-23-2013, 09:12 PM   #2
newageroman
Shadow Junkie
 
newageroman is Offline
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 107
Thats awesome writup. Great preventative maint. How much was the mosfet unit.
  Reply With Quote

Old 06-23-2013, 09:21 PM   #3
scrapdog2grand
Shadow Junkie
 
scrapdog2grand's Avatar
 
scrapdog2grand is Offline
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: NJ
Posts: 106
Quote:
Originally Posted by newageroman
Thats awesome writup. Great preventative maint. How much was the mosfet unit.
About $110.00 with the Connectors, terminals, and seals for the R&R.
__________________
http://www.cycleterminal.com Motorcycle Terminals, Connectors,Relay Kits, Accessories, Wiring diagrams. Site still under construction.

Last edited by scrapdog2grand : 06-23-2013 at 09:26 PM.
  Reply With Quote

Old 06-24-2013, 02:06 AM   #4
vagrant
Shadow Master
 
vagrant's Avatar
 
vagrant is Offline
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Wisco
Posts: 359
Looks good, real clean
  Reply With Quote

Old 06-29-2013, 08:26 AM   #5
SHADOW808
Shadow Junkie
 
SHADOW808 is Offline
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 104
Niffy solution albeit under-appreciated until an owner tries the MOSFET upgrade themselve.

The problem with fitting a MOSFET on the 600 has been the lack of clearance becuz of the side frame, actually the curvature of the side frame. By shifting the R/R laterally in, this allows the R/R to clear the side frame where there's more space available. Of course, how to go about it is another story.





below is an unmodified R/R bracket on the 600 ....





Quote:
As most [plugs] that I have seen melted, the heat started at the crimps, not the mating of the terminals.
the reason I happen to take the pic above is that on my FH010 MOSFET, one of the stator wires fell off at the crimp. I've had the FH010 on my 600 for a few years and whenever I've hit the start-button, the bike fired up powerfully. The year that I bought the FH010, the highest rated Shindengen MOSFET was an '014'.

The FH010 does not have integral plugs and looks identical to the Oem R/R and naturally uses the Oem plugs. Shoulda soldered the wires together but didn't. Ended up soldering the wires last night belatedly, posthumously, watt ever.

At any rate, the stator wire that fell off, fell off, at the crimp where you already noted is a weakspot in spite of the fact that an MOSFET R/R runs cooler.

Obviously, I suggest getting rid of the secondary connectors (arrows, pic below) on your FH020 and solder the wires together something that sure as will have to be done in the future. The FH020 still can be disconnected at its integral plugs so there's no disadvantage eliminating the secondary connector like a wisdom tooth so forth.




Because I shrink tubed the crimps, the corrosion was hidden. I did periodically check the condition of the male and female prongs which of course gave away no sign of corrosion from that side of the plug.

Even with the corroded connector the MOSFET continued to super charge the battery. Until. Alas, until I happened to work on the bike near the MOSFET wires and moved the MOSFET wires out of the way for more elbow room.

That's all it took to dislodge the faulty connection. I guess just be aware that shrink tubing will conceal a corroded wire with bliss.

Incidentally, the only reason I double-checked the R/R wires was that the bike didn't start at all. Battery too low which was very very unusual. Thankfully in the home garage. You might not be as fortunate.


Below, to make things easier soldering the wires together, disconnect the R/R from it's bracket. This might not be as obvious if you're soldering the wires on the Oem R/R together. I wedged a piece of plywood into the bike frame for a makeshift soldering table. Have a nice weekend.


Last edited by SHADOW808 : 06-29-2013 at 08:57 AM.
  Reply With Quote

Old 06-29-2013, 10:43 AM   #6
scrapdog2grand
Shadow Junkie
 
scrapdog2grand's Avatar
 
scrapdog2grand is Offline
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: NJ
Posts: 106
Quote:
Originally Posted by SHADOW808
Niffy solution albeit under-appreciated until an owner tries the MOSFET upgrade themselve.

The problem with fitting a MOSFET on the 600 has been the lack of clearance becuz of the side frame, actually the curvature of the side frame. By shifting the R/R laterally in, this allows the R/R to clear the side frame where there's more space available. Of course, how to go about it is another story.





below is an unmodified R/R bracket on the 600 ....







the reason I happen to take the pic above is that on my FH010 MOSFET, one of the stator wires fell off at the crimp. I've had the FH010 on my 600 for a few years and whenever I've hit the start-button, the bike fired up powerfully. The year that I bought the FH010, the highest rated Shindengen MOSFET was an '014'.

The FH010 does not have integral plugs and looks identical to the Oem R/R and naturally uses the Oem plugs. Shoulda soldered the wires together but didn't. Ended up soldering the wires last night belatedly, posthumously, watt ever.

At any rate, the stator wire that fell off, fell off, at the crimp where you already noted is a weakspot in spite of the fact that an MOSFET R/R runs cooler.

Obviously, I suggest getting rid of the secondary connectors (arrows, pic below) on your FH020 and solder the wires together something that sure as will have to be done in the future. The FH020 still can be disconnected at its integral plugs so there's no disadvantage eliminating the secondary connector like a wisdom tooth so forth.




Because I shrink tubed the crimps, the corrosion was hidden. I did periodically check the condition of the male and female prongs which of course gave away no sign of corrosion from that side of the plug.

Even with the corroded connector the MOSFET continued to super charge the battery. Until. Alas, until I happened to work on the bike near the MOSFET wires and moved the MOSFET wires out of the way for more elbow room.

That's all it took to dislodge the faulty connection. I guess just be aware that shrink tubing will conceal a corroded wire with bliss.

Incidentally, the only reason I double-checked the R/R wires was that the bike didn't start at all. Battery too low which was very very unusual. Thankfully in the home garage. You might not be as fortunate.


Below, to make things easier soldering the wires together, disconnect the R/R from it's bracket. This might not be as obvious if you're soldering the wires on the Oem R/R together. I wedged a piece of plywood into the bike frame for a makeshift soldering table. Have a nice weekend.

All great valid points, This unit fit in the frame fine, but the side cover hitting these large connectors was the real problem, so i actually should have stated that as primary reason for moving it back. Your SH isnt designed with the connectors, so it wasnt a problem for you.

I wanted to leave the original connectors in place as I dont like the cut the original wiring if i dont have to. Or I may have to one day pull the unit out for whatever reason.

I believe you see these wires cooking at the crimps due to heat and vibration over a period of time. So a spot of solder on the crimp should kee that from happening, only time will tell. And that was the hardest part, a make shift table and dealing with the awkwardness of it.

I just completed one of my ACE's, that had an entire new set of problems related to mounting, but also came out nice and clean, and eventually fit.
Attached Images
 
__________________
http://www.cycleterminal.com Motorcycle Terminals, Connectors,Relay Kits, Accessories, Wiring diagrams. Site still under construction.

Last edited by scrapdog2grand : 06-29-2013 at 10:47 AM.
  Reply With Quote

Old 06-30-2013, 02:27 PM   #7
SHADOW808
Shadow Junkie
 
SHADOW808 is Offline
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 104
Quote:
I wanted to leave the original connectors in place as I dont like the cut the original wiring if i dont have to.
Or I may have to one day pull the unit out for whatever reason.

by all means, leave the plugs on until after 6 months, etc, has elapsed, since a new MOSFET can prematurely fail on its own whim.

A word about the Oem plugs, it was explained to me this way .... the connector isn't the best since 2 wires split up into 4 wires going into the connector,
than after exiting the connector, the 4 wires combine into 2 wires in the harness. That's just to say that if the connector was indeed hefty enough the
2 wires would run through the Oem connector. If that makes sense.





Quote:
This unit [FH-020] fit in the frame fine, but the side cover hitting these large connectors was the real problem,
so i actually should have stated that as primary reason for moving it back.

It's been several years since I installed my MOSFET R/R so I forgot a few things.

Play was suspended due to fog.

The Oem regulator mounts with the wires sticking out from the bottom. The MOSFET is mounted 'upside down' with the wires/connector facing up.

The reason that I didn't install the FH-010 with the wires on the bottom, identical as it is to the Oem R/R footprint, is that the FH-010 wires were thicker
and making the required hairpin bend up would put too much strain on the wires. The FH-010 version doesn't have the integral connectors so space wasn't
an issue at the bottom if installed wires facing down.


This worked out well though since with the FH-010 oriented with the wires sticking up, the corners that are now on the bottom are factory mitered and beveled. The
convenient taper allows the MOSFET to clear the 600’s frame. The sidecover still had to be notched though.

Additionally, the edge of the MOSFET that the wires stick out from have partially square corners for whatever reasons. Pic above shows where I knocked off the
corners when I had that edge facing down before I switched to Plan B. That is, Plan A was to face the FH-010 wires down like the stock regulator. No viola, so Plan B
faces the wires up. FH-008 & FH-010 aren't used today for upgrades. These version don't have integral connectors like the newer MOSFETs which must have the
integral connectors facing up. Er, you won't be straddled with the same riddle.





**You already covered this but just my 2¢.**


Bike with the MOSFET mounted and all that’s left to do is slap on the sidecover and call it a night.



But wait, the sidecover throws you a curve.



The curved part of the sidecover passes over the top of the MOSFET just where the plugs sprout outta it. Of course, the camera angle only shows the side plane
of the sidecover. The sidecover’s bottom ledge provides even more conflict between form and function. Even without integral connectors on the FH-010, the sidecover
had to be notched.

The right plug (inset pic) can be accommodated by notching the bottom ledge of the sidecover.

In order to clear the left plug, the sidecover would have to be notched at it’s side face which would allow water infiltration. By moving the MOSFET laterally into the
centerline of the bike (scrapdog2grand‘s solution), then the left plug’s notch can be safely limited to the bottom ledge of the sidecover.



& just fer shits & giggles, I believe if the tab (circled) is modified or replaced with an adapter plate, a MOSFET could be installed with its connectors facing down.
This would eliminate all the hassle with notching the sidecover. You’d still have to round off the MOSFET’s corners somewhat for clearence. All the tab does is serve
as a kind of spacer mainly. Albeit, heavy on the theory.

**this won't work. Just went check and the swingarm is too close to the frame. The integral connectors won't fit in the space between the swingarm and the frame. Thusly, the connectors have to face up. My opps.**

Last edited by SHADOW808 : 07-03-2013 at 07:18 AM.
  Reply With Quote

Old 06-20-2014, 05:43 PM   #8
BaldEagle
SROC President
 
BaldEagle's Avatar
 
BaldEagle is Offline
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Memphis, TN
Posts: 6,545
This should have been a sticky...it is now.
__________________

www.baldeaglecustoms.com

Then the prophet Isaiah called on the LORD, and the LORD made the
SHADOW... 2 Kings 20:11
Okay, I know it's a little out of context, but still we have proof that God cr
eated the Shadow!!!

  Reply With Quote

Old 06-20-2014, 11:40 PM   #9
scrapdog2grand
Shadow Junkie
 
scrapdog2grand's Avatar
 
scrapdog2grand is Offline
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: NJ
Posts: 106
Thanks BE!

I did replace the pos and neg wiring at the black connector to the R&R, for no other reason than I felt more comfortable with upgrading to 2 sets of 14 gauge wire over the 2 sets of 16.


I did the ACE too, I have it here at blog spot http://shadow-ace.blogspot.com/2013/...for-98-03.html
if you want I can carry it over one day. I thought I posted it here, but I think I was having trouble getting the photos on the post when I original l tried.
__________________
http://www.cycleterminal.com Motorcycle Terminals, Connectors,Relay Kits, Accessories, Wiring diagrams. Site still under construction.
  Reply With Quote

VLX Shindengen Mosfet R Upgrade Completed
Old 01-05-2017, 06:28 AM   #10
RandalllPep
Noob
 
RandalllPep is Offline
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 3
VLX Shindengen Mosfet R Upgrade Completed

Thanks for your reply.

I dont see any information about PHPFox wants to upgrade.
Is there something I have to do, before the new PHPFox version understands I want to upgrade ?
__________________
http://seofabryka.com
  Reply With Quote



Reply


Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Forum Jump



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 03:23 PM.


vBulletin skin developed by: eXtremepixels
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.6.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.