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Old 02-17-2015, 12:46 PM   #11
BaldEagle
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A bad battery can present just as you described with spitting and sputtering when opening up the throttle.

You could also have a bad ground caused by corrosion if the bike sat up outside. Looking at the clutch perch you posted, corrosion seems to be evident.

Engine takes 3 components to run; fuel, fire and air.

1) make sure you have fuel flow, which it sounds like you do.

2) make sure you do not have a restriction in the intake, i.e. mice building a nest in the intake...seen it many times. Easiest solution is to remove the intake and just run an open carb. This gives you a clear shot to shoot some starter fluid in the carb as well.

3) Make sure you have fire to the plugs. Pull the plugs one at a time and ground it out to the engine by holding the plug against it or use a screw driver to the jug and then to the plug. Or you could just hold the plug in your hand...you'll know real quick if you are getting fire, but that is not the recommended method.

Once you determine what circuit is the issue, then you can properly troubleshoot.

Happy hunting!
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Old 02-17-2015, 08:47 PM   #12
hav0kk
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So now I'm down to the ignition coil not functioning fully or the Ignition Control Module. When I grounded the Ignition Coil and plugged it in, I tried starting the engine and the Voltmeter gave me and OL (out of limit) when I tested the spark plug lead.

Not sure if that means the coil is fine and the ICM is not providing the appropriate power or if it just means the IC is still bad, but I'm going to start with replacing the ICs (front and rear) first.

If anyone has any suggestions, please let me know.
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Old 02-17-2015, 08:48 PM   #13
hav0kk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BaldEagle
A bad battery can present just as you described with spitting and sputtering when opening up the throttle.

You could also have a bad ground caused by corrosion if the bike sat up outside. Looking at the clutch perch you posted, corrosion seems to be evident.

Engine takes 3 components to run; fuel, fire and air.

1) make sure you have fuel flow, which it sounds like you do.

2) make sure you do not have a restriction in the intake, i.e. mice building a nest in the intake...seen it many times. Easiest solution is to remove the intake and just run an open carb. This gives you a clear shot to shoot some starter fluid in the carb as well.

3) Make sure you have fire to the plugs. Pull the plugs one at a time and ground it out to the engine by holding the plug against it or use a screw driver to the jug and then to the plug. Or you could just hold the plug in your hand...you'll know real quick if you are getting fire, but that is not the recommended method.

Once you determine what circuit is the issue, then you can properly troubleshoot.

Happy hunting!
No fire to the plugs which is why I'm at the Ignition coil and potentially the Ignition Control Module.
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Old 02-17-2015, 08:57 PM   #14
mavrick_69_us
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Is the kill switch working?
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Old 02-17-2015, 09:07 PM   #15
hav0kk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mavrick_69_us
Is the kill switch working?

Kill switch seems to be working. I'm able to turn it off and on and the engine will try and turn over. That was a thought too, but how would I determine if that is my problem?
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Old 02-17-2015, 09:15 PM   #16
mavrick_69_us
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I had a lanyard switch on a boat give me the run around one time. The boat would actually crank and fire but not run. Wedged a penny in it and it fired and ran. Prob would not hurt to take it apart and take a look.
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Old 02-19-2015, 03:37 AM   #17
hav0kk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BaldEagle
Looks like the ignition coils are getting voltage from the wires, but, as for reading the voltmeter, the Hanes Manual seems to lack some specs on the ignition coil's ranges. I'm going to have to assume the range should be the same as previous models.

I really don't like this manual. It's like they added the current models to this book, but never put alot of time in the specifics as opposed to the later years. I understand they have plenty of content on the older models, but some of the instructions lack exact information or I'm just too inexperienced to read them.

Later this weekend I'm going to pull the Spark Plug leads off the ignition coil and the coil on both sides and the SP leads.

Any information would be appreciated.

NOTE: 2007 honda shadow spirit 750 C2
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Old 02-20-2015, 04:03 AM   #18
hav0kk
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Looks like the Ignition coil's resistance is over the acceptable range on the rear. Now I need to pull the front coil and see if I have the same problem. If that's the case, then I should be able to replace the coils and go from there.
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Old 03-02-2015, 07:31 PM   #19
duskeez
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i'm having this same exact problem and was gonna start a thread about it too. i just replaced the battery and the symptoms continued. just started checking into the plugs today, but i'm guessing that won't be the problem-solver for me either. i'm definitely keeping up with this thread and hopefully we come to the same conclusion. good luck... to the both of us

and i agree with you about the manual. it's a good jump-off point, but it seems kinda vague sometimes.
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Old 03-03-2015, 12:12 AM   #20
hav0kk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by duskeez
i'm having this same exact problem and was gonna start a thread about it too. i just replaced the battery and the symptoms continued. just started checking into the plugs today, but i'm guessing that won't be the problem-solver for me either. i'm definitely keeping up with this thread and hopefully we come to the same conclusion. good luck... to the both of us

and i agree with you about the manual. it's a good jump-off point, but it seems kinda vague sometimes.

I bought new coils on ebay only to find the ones that say "fit", absolutely do not. Now I'm just waiting to afford OEM coils which will cost me a much more than aftermarket versions. Returning the ebay purchases this week. What a crock of shit about the aftermarket. Waisting my time with bullshit statements that "just because we say it fits doesn't mean it fits" response and I laid into them about that. They knew it doesn't fit yet they continue to utilize inaccurate fitment guides.

Once I buy the new coils I'll be able to confirm the engine starts.
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