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Stax Mod-Dual Carb VLX's 1988-1998
Old 12-19-2011, 07:00 PM   #1
BaldEagle
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Stax Mod-Dual Carb VLX's 1988-1998

Posted by BaldEagle for Skyjac
----------

Kajima Velocity Stack Install & Stock Airbox Removal

The following instructions are for removing the stock air intake (airbox) assembly, rejetting and installing Kajima Funnels or Velocity Stacks. I would like to give special thanks to Jonny G. for lending a hand and Young and Nicholas for their info and tips.

DISCLAIMER: I am not a mechanic; I only pretend to be one on TV. That being said, if you have any doubts regarding removing parts from your motor or just want to blame someone else if your bike stops working, please have your work performed by a certified mechanic at your local bike shop. These notes are only intended to be a guideline of sorts should you decide to do this modification yourself.

Items you will need:
  • 2 Kajima Funnels. Part # 102-4233 CLICK HERE FOR SOURCE
  • Dynojet or Cobra carburetor rejet ki (be sure to get the dual carb kit).
  • Main jets (I used 125 OEM size). Check on your altitude for proper size selection.
  • 2 cans of carb cleaner.
  • Some form of filter oil (I used K&N)
Tools you will need:
  • Screwdrivers-Flat (slotted) and Philips
  • Drill
  • Metric sockets and socket wrench
  • Allen wrenches (metric)
  • Long needle nose pliers
  • Wrench (Box or crescent)
NOTES: When a side of the bike or motor is referred to, it will be the side as if you were sitting on the bike (ie...exhaust is on the right side, chain is on the left side). Two hands are great, but four hands are better. You can do this on your own, but if you have the help of a friend, it will go a lot smoother.

Here are the two pictures of the stock airbox prior to removal:




GETTING STARTED - REMOVING THE TANK:

First you will need to remove your gas tank. I don't have the stock neck covers on my bike, but if you do, you will need to remove them before removing your tank. This is simply done by removing the Philips head screw at the top of your tank and then carefully prying them out of their grommets. Take your time, they snap and break easily. Once you have them removed, begin here:

Step 1 - Turn your fuel knob to the "OFF" position. Then, using a Philip screwdriver, remove the screw holding it onto the petcock. (HINT: hold the knob in the "OFF" position while loosening)


Step 2 - Remove the bolt that holds on the rear of the tank.


Step 3
- Using needle nose pliers, compress the clamp on the fuel line located under the tank on the petcock. Slide the clamp back towards the seat. Then, carefully use the pliers to work the fuel line back and off the petcock.


Step 4
- Lifting on the rear of the tank, rotate the tank upwards, then pull back to remove it from the frame bushings. Place the tank in a safe place where the petcock won't be damaged.


NEXT - REMOVING THE AIRBOX & MOISTURE CANISTER:

Next you will need to remove the airbox from the carbs and moisture canister.

Step 1 - Using a socket, remove the bold that holds on the air intake cover.


Step 2 - Using a Philip screwdriver, remove three scres holding on the housing mount and filter cover.


Step 3 - Using a socket, remove the bolts attaching the housing to the frame. Using a slotted screwdriver, loosen the screw clamp attaching the housing to the intake runners.


Step 4 - Using pliers, remove the vacuum/moisture line attached to the back of the airbox housing.
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Okay, I know it's a little out of context, but still we have proof that God cr
eated the Shadow!!!


Last edited by BaldEagle : 03-27-2012 at 10:50 AM.
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Old 12-19-2011, 07:01 PM   #2
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Step 5 - Using a Philip screwdriver, loosen both screw clamps that attach the intake runner to the carbs. (one for the front carb and one for the rear carb)



Step 6 - Using pliers and a slotted screwdriver, move the clamps and gently pry the sub-filter lines from the carbs. (one for the front carb and one for he rear carb)



Step 7 - Using pliers, gently remove the clamp and moisture line from the rear cylinder. Using a socket, remove the bolt attaching the moisture canister to the frame. Remove with lines attached. There will also be a plugged drain line on the front. All can be set aside. These steps will be repeated for re-installation when carb is mounted back on motor.



Step 8 - Remove throttle cover on left side of the bike (front carb) and remove throttle cables (from the carb only).


Step 9 - Pull the right side intake runner off the rear carb and up through the frame. Rotate the left intake runner towards the outside of the bike. This helps with removal. Then slowly rotate the front portion of the air chamber and remove from left side of the frame. All can be set aside and will not be used in reassembly.
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Then the prophet Isaiah called on the LORD, and the LORD made the
SHADOW... 2 Kings 20:11
Okay, I know it's a little out of context, but still we have proof that God cr
eated the Shadow!!!


Last edited by BaldEagle : 12-19-2011 at 07:05 PM.
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Old 12-19-2011, 07:02 PM   #3
BaldEagle
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NEXT - REMOVING THE CARBS:

Now that the airbox and moisture canister have been removed, it's time to remove the carbs. An extra set of hands will really help here.

Step 1 - Using a Philip screwdriver, loosen the screw clamps that attach the carb to the cylinders. Next, remove the fuel line from the carbs (have a towel handy to catch gas).



Step 2 - Carefully remove the carbs from the motor by first lifting up, then maneuver carefully out the left side of the bike.


HINT: There is a main wiring bundle running up the left side fo the frame that you can move out of the way of the carbs. This is where the extra hands really help.

Step 3 - With the carbs removed, use some clean towels to temporarily fill the holes on your motor so dirt and debris does not get inside. Now that the carbs are removed, take a second to admire the big empty space where the airbox once was...Nice, isn't it?!?


NEXT - REJETTING:

Now that you have the carbs off of the bike, find a good clean place to work on them. I prefer a workbench.


HINT: Spread some paper towels out to work on. This helps you to see any parts you might accidentally drop.

Step 1 - Locate the 4 screws holding on the jet needle cover and use a Philip screwdriver to remove them.

NOTE 1: There is a spring under this cover, so it's a good idea to keep a bit of pressure on it when removing the screws.

NOTE 2: It is easy to strip these screws out, so be careful. JETS R US sells replacement allen bolts for the carbs just for this purpose. It's beneficial to pick up some when getting your supplies together.


Step 2 - Remove the jet needle cover and spring and place to the side.


Step 3 - Using a Philip screwdriver, locate the jet needle spring cover in the bottom of the diaphragm tube. Push down slightly and turn counterclockwise to release the cover. Carefully remove the diaphragm and tube.


Step 4 - Using a drill and the bit provided with the rejet kit, drill out the slide lift hole on the bottom of the diaphragm tube. Be careful to drill straight down, and not at an angle.


Step 5 - This is the time to use your carb cleaner to clean out your carb and the diaphragm tube.
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Then the prophet Isaiah called on the LORD, and the LORD made the
SHADOW... 2 Kings 20:11
Okay, I know it's a little out of context, but still we have proof that God cr
eated the Shadow!!!


Last edited by BaldEagle : 12-19-2011 at 07:11 PM.
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Old 12-19-2011, 07:03 PM   #4
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Step 6 - Locate the jet needle provided in the rejet kit. Place the clip in the second notch, place the needle back in the diaphragm tube. Insert the supplied washer next and then replace the jet needle spring cover. Reinsert the diaphragm and spring being careful not to pinch of bind the diaphragm. Replace the cover and screws.


HINT: I replace my screws with stainless allen head bolts.


Step 7 - Repeat steps 1-6 for the other carb.

Step 8 - Locate the float bowl cover and using a Philip screwdriver remove the four screws holding the cover on. Again, these screws can easily strip, so be careful.


HINT: There is a gasket on the bottom of this cover, take caution not to tear it.

Step 9 - Using a wrench and slotted screwdriver, hold the locknut still on the main jet, and loosen and remove the stock main jet. Replace with your new main jeet (in my case I used a 125 OEM Replacement).


Step 10 - Replace cover and screws.


HINT: As mentioned before, it is a good idea to replace the factory screws with stainless allen head screws.

Step 11 - Repeat steps 8-10 for the other carb.

***IMPORTANT - SEE NOTE AT THE END REGARDING MIXTURE SCREW ACCESS!!!***

Step 12
- Replace the carb on the motor and be sure to seat them fully into the boots on the cylinders.


HINT: I used some WD40 on my fingertip to lube the mouth of the boot before replacing the carbs.

Once seated, use a Philip screw driver to tighter up the screw clamps.
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Then the prophet Isaiah called on the LORD, and the LORD made the
SHADOW... 2 Kings 20:11
Okay, I know it's a little out of context, but still we have proof that God cr
eated the Shadow!!!


Last edited by BaldEagle : 01-01-2012 at 12:00 AM.
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Old 12-19-2011, 07:04 PM   #5
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NEXT - VELOCITY STACKS:

Now it's time to install the velocity stacks, but first they have to be disassembled so filters can be oiled. After oiling reassemble. Be careful not to pull overly hard on the rubber seals.



Step 1 - Install velocity stack on front carb (left side) and using a slotted screw driver, tighten the screw clamp.


Step 2 - Using pliers, remove coolant hose to the rear cylinder (have rag handy, as coolant will pill out). Install velocity stack on rear carb (right side) and using a slotted screw driver, tighten the screw clamp.



HINT: It is easier to put the stack on by going through the top of the frame.

Replace coolant hose and clamp.

Step 3 - Replace throttle cables and throttle cable cover.


Step 4 - Replace moisture canister by reversing step 7 from section above (route moisture line from airbox up and secure to frame under tank. Replace gas tank by reversing steps 1-3 in the first section.



This completes the installation. Let your bike thoroughly war up and from this point on, follow the rejet instructions regarding setting your mixture screws (my screws ended up being approximately 2.5 turns out).

Additionally, California emissions bikes require some remaining lines to be capped off when performing this mod. I do not have a California bike, so I can be of no assistance in that area.

***NOTE: I had previously drilled and tapped out the mixture screw plugs on my carbs, so I skipped this step. If your mixture screw plugs have not been removed, follow the directions in your rejet kit. The kit contains a drill bit and screw to be used for this purpose.


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Then the prophet Isaiah called on the LORD, and the LORD made the
SHADOW... 2 Kings 20:11
Okay, I know it's a little out of context, but still we have proof that God cr
eated the Shadow!!!


Last edited by BaldEagle : 08-14-2013 at 03:03 PM.
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Old 12-19-2011, 07:37 PM   #6
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thats some good shit right there Eagle.
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Old 12-19-2011, 08:08 PM   #7
BaldEagle
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Skyjac did all the work. I ran across pics in his gallery looking for mods for the new VLX and knew with the pics he had to of done a write up, just couldn't get it to post. All I did was get it here.

Great work skyjac!
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Then the prophet Isaiah called on the LORD, and the LORD made the
SHADOW... 2 Kings 20:11
Okay, I know it's a little out of context, but still we have proof that God cr
eated the Shadow!!!

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Old 12-19-2011, 08:09 PM   #8
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It's about time Bald.........Congrats on the excellent write up and pictorial. Now how about a before and after Dyno reading. Holy smokin shit it's kudos to skyjac and to Bald all in the same post.
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Old 12-19-2011, 09:13 PM   #9
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Huge thanks for posting that for me Bald. Couldn't get my crappy PC at work to upload the write-up.

I did this mod last winter after my buddy Young hooked me up with the info on it. Once I got the stax and rejet parts, I decided to do an in depth write up with pics to help out anyone that needed it.

Hope it's a help to anyone here that needs it.

Skyjac
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Old 12-19-2011, 09:44 PM   #10
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very very clean, if I didn't have the hypercharger the shadow would have this mod.
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