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From BlackTops garage, Beans original mod with pictures
Old 04-25-2010, 04:28 PM   #1
mcvierh
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From BlackTops garage, Beans original mod with pictures

Beans Stock Air Box Mod

Pictures and Text provided by Greg (Forum member BEAN210)
So, you want to improve the performance of your ACE 750, but don't have $200 to drop on a Thunder Air Kit? If so, this mod is an inexpensive and very effective solution.
Here is the list of goods you will need for this mod:
1. Previously re-jetted and re-piped ACE 750
2. Replacement K & N filter element for the ACE 750(PN# KNF-HA-7500 $38.50)
3. D134(front) and D138(rear) main jets available from Dynojet @ (800)992-4993
4. Dremel tool with grinding & cutting bits, or a sharp knife and sand paper



The first step in this process is to remove the stock air box from your ACE 750. Follow the first TWO instructions on Blacktop's Rejet page to complete this: http://www.sa750.com/thunderkit/thundercharged.htm
Diagram 1 shows the stock air box with the snorkel and cover still attached, right off the bike



Diagram 1


Diagram 2 shows the airbox in stock configuration. The snorkel is still in place.

Diagram 2





Diagram 3 shows the snorkel removed (it simply pops out)


Diagram 3





Diagram 4 is the opening created by removing the snorkel. Some people have done no further modification to the box, installed 128(rear)/124(front) jets along with a Dynojet Jet Kit (required for the new slimmer needles), and had good results. Since were going to open up the carbs, lets get all the power/air we can!

Diagram 4

Diagram 5 shows the pattern scribed into the air box. This raised rib is the pattern to follow when marking inside of this rib between 1/8" and 1/4". The accuracy of this is not critical, as the base of the filter will actually become the new opening.


Diagram 5

Diagram 6 shows the Dremel bit I used. You can also use a good sharp utility knife, making small cuts and get the same results. BE CAREFUL.

Diagram 6





Diagram 7 shows the new opening. Think of the original opening in the snorkel (appr. 1"x1"). The new opening is 6-8 times the original size!


Diagram 7





Diagram's 8 -9-10 shows the final sanding and cleanup of the filter. Diagram 8 is a picture of the Dremel bit used for cleanup.


Diagram 8


Diagram 9


Diagram10
Diagrams 11, 12 & 13 show the areas that I removed after I put the modified air box back on the bike and noticed how obstructive they were. All you need is a sharp knife to score one side, wiggling back and forth until pieces snap off.

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Last edited by bigdavy_p : 03-03-2013 at 09:41 PM.
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Old 04-25-2010, 04:30 PM   #2
mcvierh
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Diagram 11

Diagram 12



Diagram 13


Diagram 14 shows the filter in its new home. Notice that the stock filter opening is slightly smaller than the modified air box opening. Not a problem. The K & N filter opening is larger than stock and can actually be trimmed (it has a rubber base) to fit the opening perfectly-which I did.
Diagram 14



Diagram 15 shows the filter in place. I drilled two 1/8" holes and installed screws to hold the filter in place. This is important because the portion of the air box that held the filter in place has been removed. Actually, the cover holds the filter in place, the screws just position it until you can get the cover on. If you have the K & N filter, you can use two 1/8" x 1/2" long rivets. This allows you to slide the rubber-based filter on and off the rivets and not have to remove the air box to clean the filter.
Diagram 15



Diagram 16 shows the finished product, ready to mount back on the bike.
Diagram 16



After completing this mod, rejetting with the D124(front) and D128(rear) is a MUST. Refer to Blacktop's Rejet page for instructions: http://www.sa750.com/thunderkit/thundercharged.htm A few more suggestions:
1. I used the above jetting and the bike is running very well.
2. Make sure to adjust the air mixture screws, mine are turned out to 3 1/4 turns.
3. After all this modification and wrenching, I suggest getting the carbs synched.
4. I strongly suggest the k&n filter. I have no experience with the UNI filter and for that reason only can't recommend it. Toddo is going to use the UNI filter and post his results.


I know that we have a Bean Box sticky, but some folks just don't know how to get her done.......
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Last edited by mcvierh : 04-25-2010 at 04:33 PM.
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Old 05-03-2010, 10:55 AM   #3
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Just saw this. Keep up the good work.
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Old 06-09-2010, 01:24 AM   #4
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in the begining it says re-jet with d134 front and d138 in rear .......but at the end it says d124 front and d128 rears .....so which one is it ?
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Old 06-18-2010, 07:47 PM   #5
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depend's....if you drill the vacuum chamber throttle slide then start with the 134-138 combo, those that don't drill need to start with the 124-128 combo.
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Old 08-08-2012, 07:04 PM   #6
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I just completed this mod on my bike today. Rejetted with 134 front 138 rear (clips on 3rd notch) and #42 slows, mixture screws 2 1/2 turns out on front, 3 out on rear. Wow, what a difference! I can't believe how much this improved the bike. Throttle response has greatly improved and the bike get's up to speed much faster now.

I've never rejetted or removed the carbs before, so being the first time, the whole job took 3 1/2 hours. I know I could do it much faster next time though. But I don't think there will be a need to. It seems I got it right on the first try, Thank God! Strong pull and fast response at all speeds (raining here, only got up to 60mph) and throttle positions. There is a very slight backfire every once in a while at idle, but none on decel, so i'm very much ok with that! Thanks for the info!
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Old 08-08-2012, 07:34 PM   #7
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Awesome.........it's great it when things come together the way they should.
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Old 08-09-2012, 09:37 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leoj
I just completed this mod on my bike today. Rejetted with 134 front 138 rear (clips on 3rd notch) and #42 slows, mixture screws 2 1/2 turns out on front, 3 out on rear. Wow, what a difference! I can't believe how much this improved the bike. Throttle response has greatly improved and the bike get's up to speed much faster now.

I've never rejetted or removed the carbs before, so being the first time, the whole job took 3 1/2 hours. I know I could do it much faster next time though. But I don't think there will be a need to. It seems I got it right on the first try, Thank God! Strong pull and fast response at all speeds (raining here, only got up to 60mph) and throttle positions. There is a very slight backfire every once in a while at idle, but none on decel, so i'm very much ok with that! Thanks for the info!
Took me about that amount of time first time I jetted. Have done it twice since. Last time it took me about an hour. I only have I carb tho.
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From BlackTops garage Beans original mod with pictures
Old 01-19-2017, 04:55 AM   #9
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From BlackTops garage Beans original mod with pictures

Pretty cool for a free mod. Id rather just scrap the blinkers completely and use hand signals...

What have you planned for up front?
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