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ScootGeek's Intake Mod & Carb Jetting
Old 10-31-2011, 01:46 PM   #1
ScootGeek
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ScootGeek's Intake Mod & Carb Jetting

Part 1 - Remove the Stock Air Cleaner Housing & Air Cleaner Chamber
[Post '98 Model Years (Single Carb)]

If your like me, the urge to complete that mod you've been
planning for months strikes right after you've come home from
filling up your tank. Invariably, Step 1 will be to remove
the tank... Please, plan better than I did...


Source & Reference: VLX Service Manual (From Sticky - This Forum)
5-0 Fuel System
5-4 Air Cleaner Housing
5-7 Air Cleaner Chamber



Step 1: Remove the tank.
A. Remove the fuel tank mounting bolt.
B. Turn the fuel valve knob to the "Off" position.
C. Disconnect the fuel tube.
D. Pull Up & Towards the Rear Tire to unseat & remove.
* You may have to remove your seat to access the mounting bolt.

Step 2: Remove the Air Cleaner Housing
A. Remove the sub air cleaner case cover

B. There will be three bolts at 10, 2 & 6 O'clock. Remove.
This will open up the housing where the stock filter element lives.

C. With the filter element out of the housing, you will now see 2
more bolts at 12 O'clock which hold the housing to the frame. Remove.

D. From the top of the frame, looking downward, you will see a notch in
the back of the housing just above the carb. This will allow you to get
a long screwdriver down to the wormdrive clamp which holds the housing to
the carb. Loosen.

E. You will also see a hose clamp which holds the housing to the air
cleaner chamber. Loosen.


You should now be able to separate the housing from the carb, the frame mount,
and the chamber by pulling it away from the bike. With the housing loose, you
can now release the crankcase breather tube from the back of the housing. To
finish this step, remove the two bolts holding the mount to the frame.

Step 3: Remove the Air Cleaner Chamber
A. Standing on the left (Gear Shift) side of the frame, look down through
the frame and you will see a small tab (boss) where the hose is held in
place. This should simply slide up to free the hose for removal.

B. You may now pull the chamber out the left side of the frame.

* You may have better clearance if you unplug the plug wire.


It is at this point, inspired by BaldEagle, that I went to AutoZone...

Only problem, I guess is that his is "bigger than mine".


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Last edited by ScootGeek : 11-03-2011 at 09:29 AM. Reason: Added Detail on Carb Jets
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Old 11-03-2011, 10:49 AM   #2
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Part 2 - Install Jet Kit & Set Air Fuel Mixture
[Post '98 Model Years (Single Carb)]

After much research I knew upfront when I changed my intake, the
overall balance required for optimum air:fuel burn would shift -- probably
dramatically. I was already running chopped factory pipes. And, the open
intake was definitely enough to throw things off.

As part of my research, I found that the folks whose experience & opinion I
found highly credible were saying pretty much the same thing [here's a clue,
Scooby]: 142 Main, Needle Clip on the 4th Notch Down, Air Fuel 3 turns out.

With that in mind, I ordered the Dynojet DJ1197.


The kit came with:
- DJ122 (Main Jet)
- DJ126 (Main Jet)
- DJ130 (Main Jet)
- Fuel Needle
- Adjusting Washer
- E-Clip
- Mixture Screw Tool

So, where the hell is my 142?

OK, so I wasn't actually pissed off. I knew up front I was going to have to come by the
142 main somewhere else. That's where Jets 'r Us came in. For only $6.49 + Shipping
& Handling they'll sell you just about ANYTHING you could need.

It's worth mentioning early on, Yes -- I had a full tank of gas. Yes, the tank has
to come off. Yes, I should have stopped screwing this part up already. No,
I don't learn very quickly. On the up-side -- this can be done without completely
removing the carb. Ideal, probably not. But, my personal skill level leads me
to believe that the less I take apart - the less likely I'll screw up the reassembly.

Source & Reference: VLX Service Manual (From Sticky - This Forum)
5-0 Fuel System
5-11 Carburetor Removal

This is the schematic breakdown of the carb from the manual:


Step 1: Remove the Carb.
A. Loosen the drain screw to get fuel out of the float chamber.
B. Loosen the carburetor band screws. They are easily accessible
from the top of the frame.
C. Disconnect the carburetor.

Step 2: Remove the Chamber Cover.

A. Remove the 4 screws on the top of the carb.
B. Gently remove the chamber cover, spring & vacuum piston assembly.
* The screws, in my opinion, are pretty soft-headed for how tight they were. Don't be dumb.
** Be gentle with the vacuum piston. It seats in a specific way, and even a minor
tear or puncture will piss you off later.

Step 3: Remove the Float Chamber.

A. Remove the 4 screws attaching the float chamber at the bottom of the carb.
B. Since the carb is still attached, gently lift the float, and rotate the float chamber out of the way.

Step 4: Install New Parts.
A. With a flathead screwdriver, gently remove the old main jet & install the new one.
It's brass. Don't be a gorilla.

B. Using a philips head screwdriver, gently turn the plastic holder to
release the jet needle from the piston.
C. Set the clip on the new jet needle to the 4th slot down.

D. It may just be me, but I could not get the plastic holder reseated until
I clipped the top two notches off. I almost expected to clip one.
E. Install the washer that came with the jet kit onto the top of the jet
needle, above the clip.
F. Place the needle assembly back into the piston & install the holder, again
using a philips head screwdriver to turn it back into the locked position.
G. Reassemble the chamber, note the diafragm is "keyed" so that a small
portion of the diafragm fits into a notch on the carb body. Be careful. Take your time.
H. Reattach the float chamber.
I. Reattach the carb & tighten the band screws.

Here's sort of a half-assed cutaway I cobbled together...


Step 5: Adjust Air:Fuel mixing screw.

A. Using the "special tool" which came with the jet kit, turn the Air:Fuel
screw clockwise until it is seated. It is on the bottom, rear of the carb as you face
the bike from the carb-side of the bike.
B. Turn the tool counter-clockwise three full turns.
* My air:fuel tool had to be "bench-modified". It did not form a good fit to
the screw. The screw is shaped like a "D". And, I had to bend the tool a little bit to get it to "bite" properly.

Now, put the tank back on. Ride it out.

I hope this helps!
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No detail can be overlooked.
And, the ritual is intoxicating.

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Old 11-03-2011, 11:01 AM   #3
ScootGeek
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ALMOST FORGOT!!!

If you see something I missed, or have a better way of doing something; let me know. This is an
amazing place to learn & figure shit out. And, I'm sure as hell no expert.
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Old 11-23-2011, 09:45 AM   #4
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Great post. Should be a sticky in opinion.
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Old 11-23-2011, 12:21 PM   #5
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Hell yeah! That certainly clears up a few things for me. Gonna have to use this as my guide when I remove my aircleaner and rejet soon!
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Old 11-23-2011, 12:33 PM   #6
ScootGeek
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Thanks A LOT!

I did neglect mentioning the part where I accidentally & rather rapidly emptied the bowl into a can of Monster I was drinking... ;-)
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Old 11-23-2011, 03:18 PM   #7
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Hahaha. Shit happens. That's why we have fridges in the garage to get that spare.lol
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Old 11-23-2011, 04:15 PM   #8
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Excellent write up and pictures. Def sticky worthy. My only question is, how in the fuck did you hold it up in the air with just one hand in part 1 step 3 to be able to get us that close up shot? And with one hand holding the bike up in the air and the other doing the pointing did you have the camera in your mouth and snap the picture with your tongue? (only thing I can figure).
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Old 11-23-2011, 06:24 PM   #9
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I cheated.

Same picture (crazy-high resolution), then zoomed in and cropped it for the cut-out.
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No detail can be overlooked.
And, the ritual is intoxicating.

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Old 12-10-2011, 11:54 AM   #10
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Awesome post...Thanks for the 600vlx manual download also.
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