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Old 03-19-2013, 08:43 PM   #11
BaldEagle
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Will be same for all Shadows to my knowledge. Just use JB Weld to make the tool, worth a shot.

I've been doing some reseach and it seems there are a lot of people that support using Automatic Transmission Fluid instead of fork oil, older bikes like CB's and CM's actually call for it in the manual. I just did two bikes and will let everyone know how it works.
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Old 03-21-2013, 06:27 PM   #12
Poseidon
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Good call with the JB weld. I'll have to look into that ATF as a viable substitute.
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Old 03-21-2013, 08:09 PM   #13
SHADOW808
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If, JB weld doesn't work then solder two nuts to the end of an all thread rod. I guess bend the opposite end of the rod into an L.

Recipe .... preassemble two nuts on the end of an all thread rod and heat the unit up on the kitchen stove to melt & sweat some solder to glue the nuts to the rod. Salt and pepper to taste. Should be sufficient. A gas stove works better. Lastly, take pic of your masterpiece and post the pic here too or be thought of as a fucken ass ingrate. The latest.


U, R, trying to fabricate this Oem tool ....




Your bike, but do not even contemplate taking the forks apart without the vital tool.

Can the fork be pulled apart without freeing the fork piston? No.

Would an impact gun or impact wrench work without the tool holding the fork piston from above. Yes, but there's a possibility of stripping the internal threads at the bottom of the fork tube, like I've already done.

I suspect too that the oil stop lock piece can get deformed if you spin the piston.


If you like torquing things to specs 22 ft-lbs then fabricate something like this on the stove. 8mm though.




Quote:

I know that this will be a dumb question but does this same thing apply to a 2000?
B.E. already answered the question, but being that the same diagram is used for all years in the manual .... must follow, same fork across all years.
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Old 04-04-2013, 10:52 PM   #14
lowriderb
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i dont have a welder set up yer either but i found that a 5/8's shank bolt has a 24mm head on it, 10in long with two nuts backed to each other, then just need an extention and socket to fit the nut.
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Old 04-09-2013, 07:17 PM   #15
Poseidon
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Great stuff. Repairs need to be this weekend. It has been a slow leak and I have been keeping it local but I dont like to push my luck. I definitely had to cancel my dragons tail ride till another day.
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Old 04-10-2013, 09:57 AM   #16
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The write up done on here is pretty straaight forward, the pvc couplings to hammer the seals home is a good alternative to a seal driver also. The whole change out may only take you 3 or so hours if you have a lift.
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Old 04-26-2013, 06:14 PM   #17
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Just a note. In the write-up tools section says "1 1/2" PVC - approximately 2'". But Step 2 Reassembly says "You will need to use the 2" PVC to seat the Slider Bushing (6) and the Oil Seal (4)." I assume this is supposed to say "You will need to use the 1 1/2"" PVC to seat"...

Now as for a question, Refilling the oil says ..."fork fully compressed and fill to 4.4 in from the top."... Could someone give a suggestion on how to compress while it is not on the bike?
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Old 04-26-2013, 08:59 PM   #18
BaldEagle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SDPerkins
Now as for a question, Refilling the oil says ..."fork fully compressed and fill to 4.4 in from the top."... Could someone give a suggestion on how to compress while it is not on the bike?
Think about buddy!
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Then the prophet Isaiah called on the LORD, and the LORD made the
SHADOW... 2 Kings 20:11
Okay, I know it's a little out of context, but still we have proof that God cr
eated the Shadow!!!

  Reply With Quote

Old 04-26-2013, 11:07 PM   #19
SDPerkins
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BaldEagle
Think about buddy!
yup...I figured it out...I am surely an idiot. I guess when I read "Compress" I was thinking compressing the shock, spring and oil. DOH! Thanks BE.
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Old 05-28-2013, 06:17 PM   #20
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i did this last weekend went fairly quick
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