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Old 08-27-2012, 04:53 PM   #21
obnoxious bastard
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perfect... take a pic before and after your cuts please. so i know what it should look like before bolting them back on
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Old 08-27-2012, 09:59 PM   #22
gochisox81
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Nice adds Wing nut. Only reason I didn't want to replace the cover is because the grinding was pretty sparky at times and I didn't want the hot metal scraps landing on and pitting the case.

I'd like to know how the electrical tape worked covering the sensors.
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Old 08-29-2012, 10:28 AM   #23
Wing Nut OOA
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i taped up the main body of the sensor, then used a dial caliper to measure the sides (and make sure you're on the sides and not the top or bottom)

i ended up with 0.170"


i measured both sides and they were within a couple thousandths of eachother so i left it at that and continuted,





we don't have any electricity, let alone power tools up here in oregon, so i did this with something we have a lot of, a chainsaw file, hell we even have our own brand of 'em

i do recommend using and angle head or a good quality die grinder,

you want to move the sensors to the left when they are on the bike, so if you need to hold it up before you start cutting, then do so, otherwise you've made twice the work

(or you can leave it and air brush a "Retarded" theme on your bike)




i decided to stop when i had taken about 70 thousandths of meat out of the holes, leaving them at 0.100" or 1/10th of an inch



this is not gospel, the gap between the sensors and the wheel is far more important than this is,






i think the tape did a pretty good job, but not as much as i was hoping, i didn't plan on the shavings sticking to the actual part i was filing on.

it did help i'm sure but it wasn't clean enough untill i sprayed them down with carb cleaner and rapped them a couple times against the frame of the bike, this will help get most of the remaining shavings off.

when re routing the wires and replacing the sensors, take care that the wires will not hit any of the moving parts





this step is not mandatory but its a good idea anytime you have moving parts close by,

make sure your bolt holes are clean of oil and such, spray the brake cleaner in them,

also spray the bolt threads off to clean them,

apply a drop of loc-tite to each of the bolts and thread them in,

don't loc tite all of the bolts at once, only do the two that you are working with per sensor.

you don't want it to get half way set up while you're still turning the bolts.





use your feeler gauge or whatever measuring tool you used during disassembly and set the gap for the sensor,

then whilst retaining the proper gap you need to push the sensor as far as the holes will allow , to the left.



if you're not very dexterious you may need to use your feet as well, to hold everything in place.




now your'e ready to clean the gasket surfaces, you can pretty much follow goatcheesesox instructions from here on out
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Old 08-29-2012, 11:28 AM   #24
gochisox81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wing Nut OOA

now your'e ready to clean the gasket surfaces, you can pretty much follow goatcheesesox instructions from here on out
That's a new one. Froggy used to call me goat. In his mind thats just how it read i guess.

I personally prefer goatsox, goshitsox, gotchasox, or some others but whatever.

Good add to the thread. Still not sure why this isn't a sticky, but whatever. I got better things to worry about.
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Old 08-29-2012, 05:12 PM   #25
mcvierh
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It's a sticky now.........about damn time.
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Old 08-29-2012, 09:23 PM   #26
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Good write-up fellas. We need more of these.
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Old 09-11-2012, 03:16 PM   #27
lilguy43
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Would you remove the oil filter if its brand new? Or do you remove it cause it is holding oil that will spill out? Clutch springs..... new stock ones or do they make a better aftermarket set?
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Old 09-11-2012, 03:38 PM   #28
03ACE
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Aftermarket, LG.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ls_o00_s00_i00
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Old 09-11-2012, 05:11 PM   #29
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bookmarked it ... thank you... I had debit card fraud so I am waiting on my new card otherwise I would have put in the order... and what about the oil filter? I would think if I drained the oil I could leave it on... but I have never done this mod before so just curious. I guess its only an oil filter removal lol but helps conserve on a potential mess on the floor
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Old 09-11-2012, 05:57 PM   #30
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Concerning the oil filter, no you don't need to remove it for the 4*mod. However it is a really good idea that after the mod and some miles....say 100, that you replace the filter because no matter how careful you are some metal filings and shavings will end up in the crankcase and get trapped by the filter. It's not necessary just an anal thing on my part.
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